Buzz Rickson's BR80661 AN6552 "American Sportswear Co." Jacket Dark Brown

The Buzz Rickson’s BR80661 is a meticulous reproduction of the Type AN6552, the successor to the M-422A and a rare transitional model jointly adopted by the U.S. Navy and the U.S. Army Air Forces between 1944 and 1947. While visually almost identical to the M-422A, the AN6552 reflects an important historical shift: its designation incorporates the initials of both branches (Army-Navy), and instead of the traditional “USN” stencil found on G-1 jackets, this model carries the “US” marking beneath the collar, indicating its shared operational role.

This reproduction is based on a 1944 contract supplied by American Sportswear Co., one of the wartime manufacturers known for producing AN6552 jackets with a distinctive bright red rayon twill lining. The vivid interior creates a striking contrast against the dark brown leather shell while remaining fully faithful to original military specifications. The rayon twill lining offers a smooth drape, durability, and period-correct authenticity.

The outer shell is crafted from carefully selected thick vegetable-tanned goatskin, finished through a layered aniline dye and hand-waxed process. Unlike uniform industrial leather, this hide embraces natural variation. A lighter base tone is applied first, followed by additional dye layers to build depth and tonal nuance. In the final stage, artisans hand-rub heated wax into the surface, allowing subtle undertones to reveal themselves under sunlight. The result is a deep, dimensional brown with evolving patina, where the natural vertical grain of the goat hide becomes increasingly expressive with wear.

One of the most important updates from its predecessor lies in the hardware. While the M-422A used a nickel-finished zipper, the AN6552 features a mil-spec brass zipper treated with a black oxide finish, offering greater durability and a more subdued military aesthetic. The jacket is equipped with U.S. Government Department of Defense specification snap buttons, mil-spec urea buttons, and robust 100% wool knit cuffs and waistband, ensuring warmth, structure, and long-term resilience.

The collar is constructed from dense 1/2-inch genuine shearling sheep mouton, providing exceptional insulation and wind resistance. True mouton maintains its loft and structure over time, adding both functional performance and visual depth to the jacket’s silhouette.

As with all Buzz Rickson’s pieces, the attention to historical accuracy is uncompromising. From the contract label reproduction to the stitch density and pattern grading, every detail reflects extensive research into mid-1940s military manufacturing standards. The result is not simply a flight jacket, but a precise reconstruction of a rarely reproduced wartime model, bridging naval aviation heritage and Army Air Forces history in a single garment.

Fit Notes: The fit follows original specifications: short in length, straight through the body, and slightly boxy. This cut is designed to sit at the waist and works exceptionally well with high-rise jeans. We recommend choosing your usual Japanese leather jacket size for the intended fit. As always, body types vary, so we strongly suggest consulting the size chart to ensure the best possible fit.